Not long ago, I took a 3 day trip to Phrae and Lampang, provinces in the northern region of Thailand. Nothing grand just cafes, street markets, and Khao Soi. It’s a slow and lazy trip with a tiny bit of ups and downs.
Disclaimer: I’m not much of a traveler but I saw this as a chance to have fun and to grow. I have always felt ‘perfectly fine’ like in Taylor Swift’s ‘the way I loved you’ about traveling. After this trip, I think I like the idea of it, just need some push.
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Check-ins
It’s about to get messy so here are all the locations.
- 5 restaurants: Khao Soi Ban Klang Wiang, Hom 2493, Tee Lek-Tee Yai, Aroy One Bhat, Khao Soi Bun Yuen
- 3 cafes: Ban Mat Jai Homemade & Cafe,
Ho: Bake & Craft Cafe, papacraft - 1 temple: Wat Phra That Cho Hae
- 2 markets: Kad Nhung Gom at Nhong Krathing, Kad Kong Ta Street Market
- 1 museum: Museum Lampang
- 3 train stations: Krung Thep Aphiwat, Den Chai, Nakhon Lampang
- 2 accommodations: Mon Mar Turk, Baan chiang bed lampang
- 2 motorbike rentals: Car & Bike For Rent Phrae, Motorbike Rental Lampang
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Preparation & transportations
Getting ready: Firstly, book train tickets and lodging for the first night (did this day-to-day). Secondly, contact motorbike rentals. Last but not least, pack clothing, toiletries, and chargers.
Getting around: We went around with the help of google map, a rented motorbike (250 and 300THB/day), railways, e-hailing (Grab), and traveling blogs of internet users who rate and recommend from tourist destinations, accommodations, to food. I appreciated the latter a lot, that’s why I have to share mine too.
Somehow, we ended up choosing meals that only outsiders would associate with northern Thailand. Or I just loved it, let me indulge in peace.



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Day one
Heading out: We took a 8.30 PM train to Phrae, tickets bought online (316THB a seat). It was raining on the way to the train station and I got drenched, allowed to be on the train still. As far as I could recall, that was my first time traveling on a train. It was better than I thought, that 11-12 hour train ride from Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal Station (also known as Bang Sue Grand Station), Bangkok’s main terminal station to Den Chai Railway Station, Phrae. I think I preferred a train over a car because I didn’t get carsick. Hooray.



First thing after the motorbike rental was a salon. I needed to have my hair washed because as I said I got a little bit drenched. Besides, we couldn’t check in and rest at the homestay until 2PM. Nothing compares to the feeling after that, consider doing this when you travel.
Otteri wash and dry, because I wanted to be comfortable
And finally, we had our first Khao Soi of the trip at Khao Soi Ban Klang Wiang. But I was so hungry it’s been who knows how many hours without food. Therefore, we went to try another signature manu of Phrae, “Khanom Jeen Nam Yoi,” at restaurant Hom 2493.


To make sure we functioned, we drove 10 minutes to the first cafe of the trip, Ban Mat Jai to grab some coffee. By the way, one thing about riding a motorbike in Thailand is that the heat was no joke. A cafe with shades and refreshments is such a blessing. Ban Mat Jai also offered various workshops for different crafts and we decided to spend a few hours on a ceramic painting session.



We left the crafts with the cafe and received a parcel of them baked and useable on the 2nd of September.


Wanted bad to rest, we moved. We headed to our first shelter of the trip. It was a homestay and camping place with stunning views called Mon Mae Turk. I was very excited because it’s in the middle of mountains far away from the urban areas. It was beautiful indeed the massive mountains wearing the green of the whole kingdom of trees in the environment they were most favored. Looking kinda like broccoli heads. Not to mention the freshest air I breathed in a long time. Right there, we rested and spent the night. Mon Mae Turk also provided food, drinks, and snacks for visitors to buy.


FYI, If you’re afraid of heights and ghosts like I am, it can be scary to go to the bathroom alone at night.
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Day two
Our plan was to visit Wat Phra That Cho Hae, return the motorbike, and take another train to Lampang at 3 in the afternoon. We started early and enjoyed another Khao Soi feast and some orange juice at Tee Lek-Tee Yai noodles & Khao Soi.

Wat Phra That Cho Hae is a very old and important temple in Phrae, dating back to the Sukhothai era (late 19th century). It’s known to be the temple of those who were born in the year of the tiger. The weather was hot, but it was not crowded that day. There were many activities to do including walking 3 times around the famous golden pagoda (inside are the sacred Buddha relics).



There were some food and souvenir shops nearby. We bought some clothes because they’re very comfortable to wear, especially the iconic elephant pants, unless it’s tiger, the animal symbol of Wat Phra That Cho Hae and the province of Phrae.
Feeling blessed but tired, it’s about time for coffee. The second cafe of the trip was Ho: Bake & Craft Cafe. There we looked up a hotel room for the night. Happened to feel hungry again, I ordered a carrot cake, very soft and sweet.

After a while, we were back on track and headed to the rentals to return the motorbike. Then, we took a taxi (using Grab mobile application) to catch a train at Den Chai. The station was very far from Phrae city, boyfriend said that we were lucky that somebody agree to take us all the way there.
It was a comfortable 2 hour ride, we got an air-conditioned train, another first time of mine. We arrived at Nakhon Lampang Railway Station. Unlike Den Chai, Nakhon Lampang station is located right in Lampang city. That was the kind of ups and downs too.


We took a pick-up truck taxi from Nakhon Lampang station to the bus terminal from which we could go to the second bike rental on foot. Try looking outside, because Lampang is the only city in Thailand that you can still see horse carriages on the streets.
I was being picky about the helmet for a few minutes at the rental before we’re set and ready to go rest at the hotel. Rooms were wide and clean at Baan chiang bed Lampang. They had everything a hotel supposed to have plus some extra coziness.


For dinner, we had a big meal out at a restaurant near Kad Kong Ta called Aroy One Bhat. To my surprise, we ordered 10 different dishes and all were served in less than 15 minutes. They tasted great too. Recommend. Would go again. Before the rain got serious, we drove back to the hotel and that was it for day two.


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Day three
Started the day with our first Khao Soi in Lampang at the restaurant Khao Soi Bun Yuen. My favorite of the three.
Since it was the last day, we wasted no time and moved to the next destination quickly. Our little coffee session of the day was by the Wang River at Papacraft Craft & Cafe. It’s a very alive and well-decorated place, with generous space dedicated to their stylish merchandise, some of which are award-winning works.


Looking for more choices of souvenirs and food, we stopped at Kad Nhung Gom, an outdoor market in Nhong Krathing. There were about 20-30 stalls selling local food, drinks, clothing, and accessories. They also featured some good live music. Thanks to Kad Nhung Gom, we had the right mood and attitudes for the museum.
Then off we went to the only museum of the trip, Museum Lampang. The history of the people, the city, and the wisdom of Lampang unfolded in 16 exhibition rooms. In the first room, for example, the brief history of tribes, groups of people that had lived and influenced Lampang was narrated from the prehistoric to the present. Overall, you’d see that the museum put the effort in their storytelling and getting the audience to engage. Their puzzle was very hard, I failed (a student next to me solved hers in 3 minutes though).




After museum, we returned the bike and relied on grab car services for the rest of the trip (to Kad Kong Ta Street Market and to the train station).
Kad Kong Ta Street Market, also called the Chinese market by Lampangians, is situated alongside the Wang river on the street that once was a prosperous economic road and home to English, Burmese, and Chinese merchants. Every weekend, local food and goods stalls are set up right next to the old houses and buildings, whose styles still exude the influence of the merchants, welcoming all visitors. The products were varied and the prices were affordable, perfect for a hungry woman who wanted some food, maybe fruits, drinks, and cute souvenirs all within a few hours.
We must have walked a lot of steps because my legs went stiff. Just checked and it was 7475 steps that most were walked in a couple hours at the street market. Nevertheless, we’re ready for another night on the train.




Finally, we got into the last taxi after checking our belongings one last time. Nakhon Lampang at 6PM took me by surprise, the sunset was so beautiful, but why did it already smell like nostalgia? From Nakhon Lampang to Bangkok was 12 to 13 hours, and I knew what to expect this time. Not sure if that made it more or less tiring. Around 6-7AM the day after, the train announced its arrival at Krung Thep Aphiwat terminal station.

As a homebody, I’m not used to traveling long distances like this. However, I think I secretly want to experience and to own most things and thanks to this, I discovered a few more ways to achieve that.
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Thank you for scrolling all the way here!
I did make a digital version of my ceramic painting and put it in my newly approved Redbubble shop. It might be interesting. I’ll write about it.

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